6. How to drive
1. How to read maps
All riders in OPEN must know how to read a topographic (hiking) map.
Google for tipps (how to read topo maps) or click for a pdf here:
2. How to use a GPS
Explanation according to 60cx/csx
To arrange this setting press PAGE until MAIN MANU shows, go with cursor to “setup”-sign, press ENTER on “Setup”-sign, press ENTER on “System”, go to “Text language” and pick English with cursor and ENTER. On this page you can also check if your GPS is in ON or OFF modus, and if you want your GPS to stay always on, also when you turn off the ignition key, in case you are using a 12 V power cable. If you have full batteries is better to have it on “STAY ON”.
Please also go with cursor to “setup”-sign, press ENTER on “Setup”-sign, press ENTER on “Time”, and pick 24 h in “time format”, “Athens” in “Time Zone” and “Auto” in “Daylight Saving Time”.
Prepare before race:
1. MAP: drive with “track up”, not “north up”. To arrange this setting press PAGE until map shows, press MENU, move cursor to “MAP SETUP – GENERAL”. There you go to orientation and set “truck up” with cursor and ENTER.
2. MAP: drive with “LOCK ON ROAD” OFF, not ON. Follow steps in 1 to get there, same page. Use cursors and ENTER to fix. All other settings on map can be as preset.
3. TRACKS: use blue color for your own track. ALL tracks given by CFMOTO.
HUNT-THE-WOLF will be red!!! To arrange this setting press PAGE until MAIN MANU shows, press ENTER on “TRACKS”-sign, move cursor to “setup”, then ENTER. Here you can change color with cursor and ENTER. “wrap when full” must be active!
4. TRACKS: To arrange this setting press PAGE until MAIN MANU shows, press ENTER on “TRACKS”-sign, move cursor to “setup”, then ENTER. Here you can change color with cursor and ENTER. “Wrap when full” must be active!
5. TRACKS: you MUST (!!!) learn how to show one track on map only. To do so you press PAGE to “Main Menu”, there you ENTER on “Tracks”; you move cursor to each track, press “ENTER” on each, move cursor to “Show on map” and deactivate with ENTER. Move cursor to “ok”, press ENTER, and repeat this steps on all tracks. When finished go to the only track you want to see on map, ENTER, activate “Show on map”, “ok”, and check on map (with PAGE you get there). Organizers will always explain you, which track you must activate where needed.
6. LIGHT: at night you need to have the display backlight on all times! To arrange this setting press PAGE until MAIN MANU shows, go with cursor to “setup”-sign, press ENTER on “Setup”-sign, press ENTER on “Display”, go to “Display mode” and pick “daytime” (better visible also at night, as we think) with cursor and ENTER. On same page in “backlight timeout” you choose “Stays on” if you want your GPS to stay always on, also when you turn off the ignition key, in case you are using a 12 V power cable. During night race you need to have full batteries and have it on “STAY ON”.
7. (for experts: in “tracks”, “setup”, the “record method” should remain on “Auto”.)
1. Drive with MAP showing, zoom to 50 m on PS, 80 m when not in PS. Sometimes it is convenient to switch between 50, 80 or more. The Buttons “IN” and “OUT” on your GPS will zoom in and out for you. If you use the cursor in MAP-mode to see for example a point or track better, which is out of the screen area and becomes too small when out-zooming, you just have to press PAGE and QUIT and the map will be recentered on your location.
2. All checkpoints on given track must be approached/bypassed in the correct race direction, otherwise they are considered as NOT reached.
3. If you are not sure if you approached a checkpoint close enough, you can go with PAGE to “map”, then press “Menu”, there put cursor on “Measure Distance”, ENTER, and use cursor to see distance change while moving cursor.
Please don’t forget that, at registration before start, all used GPS-devices must be announced to organizers and must be numbered by organizers. All other devices will not be considered for track checking.
Begin to study your Garmin GPS NOW!
For questions write to firstname.lastname@example.org – also in Romanian!!! 🙂 Answer will be given in English.
3. What should not be used during the race:
– Extra-large tires or particularly aggressive mud tires: all the extras that lift the vehicle off the ground make it also tip over more easely. In extreme side angles, not uncommon, and even in extremely steep ascents and descents you rather sit deeper! A good skid plate is much better to slide over the relatively few rocky passages then a high clearance. Mud is also a rarity in -HUNT-THE-WOLF; when it rains the woods will be wet and slippery, but not really muddy.
– Extra wide wheel spacers: While giving security on the steep slopes and side angles, they make it hard when it gets very tight – as it often does between two trees or a in narrow canyons.
– ATV boxes: Any type of box should be removed in Extreme. It just brakes and moves the wight center upwards. In addition, take a box for what? To open the box anyway there’s no time! Better is to take down all racks to touch plastic and not iron when rolling over!
– Lights/license plate: you do not need lights or license plate on the ATV! Espescially in EXTREME you should take ALL un-necessary stuff down!
The lighter your ATV the better! The less you can crash, the cheaper you get away…
– drivers license: you do not need any drivers license!
4. What should be used during the race:
! – Handguard: absolutely, otherwise bleeding hands soon! Through the brushes otherwise you end up like a warthog.
! – tire-repair-kit: Those things you plunge in the holes are a must! Also you should carry a starter spray and a lighter to “explode / press” back on the rim a tire which came off th rim! And of course an electrical pump! But that one should fit into a small backpack.
– 2 GPS: a reserve! Must not be mounted on the ATV, but if one gets destroyed by crash or branches, then you can continue to race with the 2nd one!
– Camel bags: Drink, drink, drink – to prevent cramps. Those who do not drink enough will fail. Electrolytes in the water, etc. also help.
– Under normal gloves use cycling gloves: prevents blisters on fingers or near fingers. – Storm Cap: keeps the helmet sweat free and serves as a cap when it gets cold while waiting for rescue after…a break down.
– Googles with extra plastic sheets: they might get muddy when others pass you…or you them! Good vision is essential!
– Smartphone: GPS-Motion-X is the best application you can use on the phone. In ADVENTURE you do not need a GPS if you have a GPS-app on your smartphone. (In EXTREME you MUST bring a Garmin GPS!), Bring your car-charger for the phone!!! Also for emergencies! The phone MUST be free for roaming and you MUST have credit on the phone! It is best to use a NOT-Romanian SIM-card during the race since to be able to use all the poor signals around! This can save your life!!!
5. Just before the start:
– 5 min warm up: especially the forearms, head, shoulders, hips and back should be loosened and warmed up right. Whoever starts after a warm up will not get tired arms immediately and will not get hurt as easily by an early crash!
– Check GPS: Track of the day is up? Batteries charged? Charger OK? Protective film on the GPS screen good enough? GPS mount ok? GPS should not be vibrating! Tracks are pre-stored in red, your own track should save in black! Check settings! Better go entire race with GPS display-light on 100% “on”! This gives more contrast, but beware when driving with batteries. The light sucks them out fast!
– Tire pressure: Different opinions exist. I personally ride in races with 0.5 to 0.6 PSI in the front, rear 0.4 to 0.5 PSI. Less pressure makes fast driving un-secure and might cause (tubeless)tires from slipping down from the rim (Badlocks we no longer use because the tires are damaged so quickly). Other pilots race with less pressure to have more grip.
– check contacts: battery tight?, battery cables tight? Winch works?
– make sure you have 1 spare-pair of dry gloves and 1 spare dry T-shirt along!
6. How to drive:
– Haste makes waste! Or: better slower (not slow!) and steady then fast and crash or wrong way! HUNT-THE-WOLF Extreme wins the fast who care for engine and tires (!) and at the same time are able to check and follow the GPS without stopping. Train it!
– Never drive in L! Only in H. Otherwise, the response is too aggressive, too dangerous. The ATV can then be overflip. You MIGHT use L on very very very steep downhills for equal braking.
– With modern ATVs we ALWAYS go in 4×4! Unfortunately for those who go without power assisted ATVs: they need arms of iron and should in any case WHEREVER POSSIBLE only go in 2×4 in order to save power. But on climbs and especially (!) on steep descents always go in 4×4!! Otherwise it can quickly become dangerous!
– In short, very steep descents always slow at the very end! Otherwise the ass of the ATV flips over on you. Think about going down in L!
– Before long steep climbs you HAVE to think: Can I do that or not? A NO can be wiser! Those who opt for yes must be 100% for it: GAS, especially before the climb begins, then with constant gas but without acceleration and without hesitation all the way up. If you have to somehow stop or the Atv turns sideways, stop completely and immediately! Do not try to start in the steep when stopped! Also back-rolling is usually not the answer. Better gear in PARK, block brakes. Descend! Use winch! Or wait for help.
– When riding sideways travel body towards the mountain, if necessary step onto the mountain running board. Important: drive slowly! A small bump can – via the suspension – overturn your ATV. Test maximum inclination already at home, to get a feeling!
– Once again, dare long really steep climbs only if WITHOUT hesitation! Accelerate only up to the where the climb begins! Completely STOP when problems! When going sideways: slow!
7. Tips in pictures [April 8]
How NOT to protect the GPS on the handle-bar
A GPS should NEVER be higher then the handle bar. It will get to much hit by low branches and when underpassing fallen trees you might NOT be able to pass. Keep your GPS low!
Warm up exercises – directly before the start!